Up before the sun, my man and I loaded our foam board into the car and made the trek from Venice to Malibu. Assessing the waves at 6:03am and entering that vast salty ocean by 6:20am (it takes a very, very long time to put on the wetsuit), we were paddling and even turtle rolled a wave by 6:22am. And then at 6:25am the sun rose over the mountains, and I literally blew my own mind that I was sitting in the Pacific Ocean watching it....this early.
An update on surf journal: as you will recall, I am not a pro and I have yet to fully ride a wave yet. But I will tell you what, I got close today. I got really close. And then the waves crashed on me a little too near to the rocky shoreline and I swallowed a lot, and I mean a lot of saltwater.
Thus, today I learned patience. The beautiful patience in watching and learning the waves. Giving the ocean time to build and being ready when the waves start to roll in to paddle my heart out. And then actually paddle three more times than I actually think necessary. Being patient with not only the ocean, but also with myself and okay with missing that one and the next one. And then having to wait, again. And finally, making sure to celebrate a knee on the board, celebrating a half stand for a half of a half of a second. The beauty of a beginner in surfing, so dreamy, so early and so many life lessons.
Get up early. Blow your own mind this week!